I thought you might be interested in seeing how my teacher had me line my straight skirt, so I took some photos. I took the photos after wearing the skirt though, so the lining is wrinkly! You are forewarned! ;)
The bottom hem of the lining is several inches shorter than the skirt hem and it is free-hanging, except along the kick pleat (is that the correct term?). And at that point, it is hand-stitched down for just the length of the seam allowance. You can see how the fabric selvedge (of the fashion fabric) is included in the seam allowance, so there's no finishing needed there.
And along the center back seam, the lining is sewn together a few inches in the very middle, but then it is left unattached to the fashion fabric until just above the kick pleat again. Apparently this is to help prevent fabric stress (and rips) from sitting down, etc.
Can you see the horizontal wrinkle in the photo, just above the kick pleat? Well, just above that, the lining is not attached to the fashion fabric...not until it reaches the back zipper.
(Aside: You maybe cannot see it in this photo, but my lining fabric has already started to show strain along its back (machine-sewn) seam, after only 3 wears. This leads me to conclude it's not very sturdy lining fabric.)
And then the lining is hand-stitched to the back zipper. And the top of the back zipper is hidden in the waist band:
Here's a close-up on the hand-stitching:
Other than that, construction-wise, the lining is enclosed inside the waist band and after folding over the waist band, it's attached by hand inside:
My teacher says that those stitches should be nearly invisible, so by those standards, my work there is not very good! But I'm okay with that. :)
So, overall, the lining is sewn together at the side seams, and then again for several inches in the middle back seam. And you just fold over the fabric (in vertical "pleats") as needed to make it mimic the front and back darts (and get it the circumference as the fashion fabric), then enclose it in the waist band. To finish up, you hand-stitch it to the zipper and at the kick pleat, then hem it.
I was happy with this procedure and it seemed logical to me, until this happened:
The zipper broke! Well, the slider (le curseur, in French) is now only attached to one side. After only 3 outings! This was a minor wardrobe malfunction because it happened on my way to work, or at least, that's when I discovered it. So, I had been bopping along, first in the tram, then the bus, then out walking, with my zipper down. At least I had tights on, so people couldn't see my underwear. And, I tell myself, maybe my bag was masking it a bit 'cuz I often wear my bag across the chest and then turn it toward the back.
At work I was able to pin it together so I taught my two classes without incident.
But now I need to replace the invisible zipper in my practically brand-new skirt! And because of the lining construction, it means at least partially undoing the waist band, as well as the zipper. Unless any of you know a way to put the slider back on? I'm not sure I'd trust it though...
Which brings me to the question part of today's blog post:
1) I used a generic zipper brand; is there a (sturdier) brand which I should be using? YKK??
2) is there another way of putting in the lining which would make it easier to swap out the zipper in such an event? flat lining?
3) have you constructed a lined, straight-skirt like this or do you do it differently?
I'd be grateful for any tips you have!!